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Friday, September 3, 2010

40 Rivers To Freedom

Fly Fishing & Fly Tying Blog

Archive for January, 2008

Countdown! 16 Ways To Prepare for the 2008 Season

Posted by AC On January - 28 - 2008

Have you noticed? As of tomorrow, there are only 50 days till the official first day of Spring. I don’t know about everyone else, but I’ve been doing a little procrastinating this Winter. Here are 16 things to do to get ready for the upcoming fishing season.

1.) Flies

First things first. Before you start tying or buying flies for the upcoming season, go through your boxes and get rid of the experiments gone wrong from last year as well as any with rusted hooks. Organize your boxes so that you can find the fly you need, when you need it. Something else to remember is to make sure you have your contact info on your fly boxes. I’ve learned this the hard way, twice.

2.) Suck Up

Do some extra chores around the house and encourage the Mrs. to go shopping, or out with her friends. This will pay off huge during the season when the grass is almost knee high and you’re going fishing for the 10th day in a row.

3.) Fly Line Maintenance

Take your lines off the spool and clean them. There are many methods. I soak mine in some warm dish water, then thoroughly rinse them off a couple times. Be sure to not leave any soapy residue on the line. Once they’re good and clean, dry them by running the lines through a dry cloth, as well as your fingers, feeling for any rough spots.

4.) Check Your Backing

Unspool your backing. Whether you saw your backing last year or not, it’s a good idea to unspool your backing. Chances are good there will be a spot or two that it’s stuck. Wait to spool it back on until after you clean/lube your reel.

5.) Reel Care

Once your reels are free of backing and fly line, thoroughly clean the dirt, sand, or any other crap that might be in them. Also, clean off any old grease with a degreaser or brake cleaner. Brake cleaner will evaporate, thus no residue. Once your reel is sparkling clean, apply some fresh lube. I use Quantum Hot Sauce. Don’t get any type of grease or oil on your fly line! If taking stuff apart and putting it back together isn’t your thing, most reel manufacturers will service it for a nominal fee.

6.) Fly Rod Checkup

There’s not a whole lot to do with rods. But it’s probably a good idea to look your rods over for any signs of stress. I also like to take an old tooth brush and go over the threads on my reel seat to get out and dirt, sand, etc. Check the male and female ferrules for dirt, as well. If there is, clean them with a non abrasive material.

7.) Clean Out and organize Your Vest

“There’s that peanut butter and jelly sandwich I couldn’t find last Summer!”

“Still tastes great!”

Empty out all of the pockets in your vest and organize everything so you can find it on opening day. Make sure you’ve got enough split shot, bobbers, floatant, etc. Check your vest’s zippers, Velcro, hydration pack, etc. for any signs they might need replaced.

8.) Leaders and Tippet

Whether you build your own leaders, or buy store bought ones, make sure you’ve got what you need. Same thing with tippet.

9.) Check Your Thermometer

Please don’t tell me you don’t carry a thermometer. Water temp is everything! Unfortunately for me, the water everywhere I fished was 60°F all of 2007. Most people aren’t carrying around a calibration kit for their pocket thermometer, so a good way to check is to turn your kitchen sink on and get the water to a temp that feels about body temperature, not hot, not cold. Your thermometer should be about 98°F. Then run straight cold water to make sure it shows you that the water is getting colder.

10.) Leaky Waders

Check your waders for leaks in the tub or send them to the manufacturer to get serviced.

11.) Recon

Know your enemy. Study aerials or topo maps. This is a great way to kill time. I’ve already found several areas that I’m pumped to explore when the weather warms. Not to mention some better ways to access spots I already know will produce. Check out hatch charts if you’re going to another region to fish, or aren’t familiar with hatches in your area. Practice knots, especially ones you don’t tie often.

12.) Get Legal

I threw streamers with the president of an anonymous chapter of Trout Unlimited a couple seasons ago, the day after the previous years fishing license expired. We were eating some venison chili afterwards and I mentioned that I just got my new license that morning. Suddenly, he looked like he saw a ghost. Yup, he forgot to get a new license. If your state’s fishing licenses expire in the Spring, make sure you don’t forget to renew your license.

13.) Check Your Float Tube, Pontoon, etc.

I can’t think of many things that would suck more than to hike in to your favorite backcountry brookie pond, start kicking your way out to deeper water, and find out you’ve got a leak. Check air bladders for leaks, clean out pockets, etc.

14.) Waterproof Stuff

There are several waterproofing products on the market. Retreat your raingear, and any other stuff you want to repel water such as vests, tents, etc.

15.) Check Glasses

Make sure you can find your polarized sunglasses. Wipe them off and put them in your vest now before you forget to do it on your way out the door. Make sure they’re good. many inexpensive sunglasses don’t offer any UV protection, even though they have that little sticker saying they do. For some reason it’s unregulated, and a lot of people are out there with their eyes wide open to harmful UV rays.

16.) Practice Casting

Take your rod out side and practice casting. If you don’t fly fish year round it won’t hurt to knock a little rust off before you’re casting in actual fishing conditions. If you’ve got money, maybe take a few lessons.

Gonna Start Making My Own Leaders

Posted by AC On January - 16 - 2008

I’ve been thinking a lot lately about making my own tapered leaders. I already do build my own leaders for streamer fishing, but have always avoided making my own for fishing dry flies or nymphs. It’s just easier to buy a packaged leader and tie it on. However, packaged leaders are pretty expensive compared with making my own. I guess I could buy the cheap ones, but I’ve found that there is a reason they’re cheap. The main thing most cheap tapered leaders have in common is they’re stiff, and have a lot of memory.

The first time I picked up some “high end” leaders was because they were on sale and I had a little extra money to spend. They were Froghair leaders and I was blown away by their suppleness. It straightened out with little effort, and cast beautifully. I wish I would have bought more.

However, I can’t afford to go out and buy enough leaders to get me through the year at $6 a pop. Inspired by the Europeans, I also want to try using super long leaders for nymphing this year, and I can’t really buy some of the length I want. So the idea to make my own has been lingering in my head like a fart in my waders- I can’t walk away from it.

I’ve been surfing the web trying to find good charts to go by. Some sites say to use the 60/20/20 formula, some say 50/25/25, and all ratios in between. I even found a site that uses this java calculator to help calculate leader formulas. This page had somegreat info, too.

I guess I better learn to tie a good blood knot…

I Guess I’m Old Fashioned

Posted by AC On January - 16 - 2008

When I picked up a reel from Orvis the other day, the guy working asked if I wanted it set up for right or left hand retrieve. I wanted right hand, so of course it was already set up for left. While he was showing me how to change it, in case I ever wanted to switch it back to left, he mentioned that mostly old timers prefer to reel with their goofy hand.

I actually have reels set up for both, and I prefer to fight fish with my dominant arm. But I also like to net, or tail fish with that arm. So my reel weights from 6 and up are set up to reel with my right hand. That way, I don’t have to switch the rod to a different hand at that critical moment when most big fish are lost. Plus, it just feels right to reel with my right hand.

On my reels set up for smaller fish such as Bass, Trout, and Panfish, I rarely use my reel. My fingers are my drag, and I feel like I can react quicker when using my right hand to hold the line against the rod while stripping, or between my fingers when letting a fish take some line.

What hand do you reel with?

Choosing a Fly Rod

Posted by AC On January - 15 - 2008

continued from “Picking a Reel

You’ve got your new line spooled up on your new reel. Time to find a stick to cast it. Like you did when picking a reel, the first thing you need to figure out when buying a fly rod is what your price range is. Whether you only want to spend $100, or $700, you should be able to find a rod you’re happy with. I recommend taking you reel and line to a shop so you can test prospective rods with the actual reel/line setup you’ll be using. The reason being that not only will rods vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, and model to model- they’ll even vary from rod to rod. If you’re a rookie, you probably won’t be able to detect subtle differences, and that’s okay. What you’re looking for is a rod within your budget that feels good with your line/reel. Just because you’ve got a 6wt line, doesn’t mean it will cast best with a 6wt rod. It might feel better with a 5wt rod, it might feel better with a 7wt rod. The only way to find out is by casting it with as many rods as possible.

Action

There are 3 main rod actions: slow, medium/moderate, and fast. Then there are “in-between” actions such as mod-fast, etc. Some companies will use a flex designation to describe their rod’s action. Examples are tip-flex, mid-flex, and full flex. What does this mean for you?

Slow Action or Full Flex

  • Slow action rods bend the full length of the rod while casting. This makes them very forgiving, thus, a rod for beginners. Even with a short amount of line out, the rod will easily load, making them ideal for small to medium sized streams. Their flexibility also helps by serving as a shock absorber for light leaders/tippets. A disadvantage is it is harder to control big fish. It’s also more difficult to make long casts, or cast into the wind(unless experienced).

Medium Action or Mid-Flex

  • You could say that these are Goldilocks rods- they’re not too stiff, or too soft. They’re a great all around rod, especially if you fish in a wide range of conditions. Since they load from around the middle of the rod to the tip, they are a good rod for beginners want a little oomph, but still need more forgiveness than a fast action rod.

Fast Action or Tip Flex

  • These are stiff, thus giving you more power and faster line speeds. They’re nice for making long casts, casting into the wind, as well as for casting bigger flies. Their power also helps when fighting large fish. Their downfall is that their stiffness gives you less shock absorption, resulting in more strain on your leader/tippet. Most people won’t advise a beginner to start with a fast action rod since they aren’t as forgiving as a medium or slow action rod.

The Ingredients

  • The Blank- The blank is the actual rod. The most common materials they’re made from are bamboo, fiberglass, and graphite. Bamboo being the heaviest, Graphite being the lightest.
  • Grips- There are several grip styles. The main types are: full wells, half wells, reverse half wells, and cigar. Most are made from cork. Make sure your grip feels natural in your hands when holding and casting.
  • Reel Seats- The reel seat is what holds your reel on the blank. Things to keep an eye out for are gnarly threads, and that your reel is secure when attached to the rod. Some reel seats will have a fighting butt. This is a nice luxury to have if you will be fishing for lagre fish such as Salmon, or Saltwater species. If you are fishing for saltwater species, make sure your reel seat is made of a corrosion resistant material such as aluminum or titanium.
  • Guides- The two most common types of guides are single foot and double foot. Single foot guides are lighter, and will interfere less with your rods action. Double foot guides are stronger, and more secure. If fishing in saltwater, make sure your rods guides are corrosion resistant.

LengthFishing poles serve two purposes. To guide/cast the line, and to help land fish. They’re a fancy lever. As you lengthen your lever, casting requires less effort, and vise versa. Figuring out what length depends mostly on the distances you’ll need to cast. If you fish small streams, a rod shorter than 9′ might be a good choice. If you fish lakes or the surf, or need a high back cast to get over vegetation, sandbars, waves, etc. a longer rod might be the way to go. Rods that are 8′ to 9′ are most common, since they are a nice medium.

Custom Rods

Custom rods are a great way to get exactly what you want in a rod. Depending on the builder, they can also be a great way to get more rod for your dollar. When choosing a builder be sure to get references and see their past work. Find out if there is any type of warranty that covers your rod’s components, as well as workmanship.

Build Your Own

Building a basic fly rod isn’t very hard with a little guidance. This is a great way to save money for the do-it-yourselfer. I’ve built a couple rods, and it was a great experience. A couple sites to check out if you want to look more into building your own are

www.mudhole.com

www.rodbuildingforum.com

Time to get leaders and flies!