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Strung Out MOAL Leech by Loren Williams

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9 December 2009 One Comment

The Strung Out movement was created by Pacific Northwest guide Derek Fergus. Articulated flies are nothing new, but this method of tying permits an angler to create very large flies with articulated action yet eliminating a solid, long hook shank. flies can give you large flies and small hooks but they loose the articulation some folks find very appealing, especially on flies intended to be swung and not retrieved. Articulated flies use the long solid hook shank of a front hook to build the fly, but that shank can be used by the fish as leverage to work the fly loose or break the leader. Fergus’ Strung Out philosophy of tying involves tying the fly on section of “string”.

The MOAL (“Mother Of All Leeches”) is a successful version of the Strung Out Leech.

There are a number of ways to tie this tricky, yet simple, pattern. Shown below is the way I have decided is easiest for me. Note: You can adjust the degree of articulation by altering the length of Dacron and the length of the forward hook shank.

MATERIALS
Front Hook: Straight Eye Streamer or Hook
Rear Hook: Short Shank Beak Hook
Weight: Spirit River Hot Bead
Thread: Flat A or other Heavy Thread
Rear Accent Bead: Cascade Crest Candy 4 mm Glass Faceted Bead
Platform: 30-pound Dacron fly line backing
Body: Rear Pink Cross-Cut Rabbit; Front Flesh CrossCut Rabbit

Place an appropriately sized Hot Bead on your front hook and affix the hook in your vise.

moal1

Start your thread behind the bead and lay a short base on the shank. This will provide a rough foundation against which to seat the Dacron.

moal2

Cut a section of 30-pound Dacron Fly Line backing or other suitable, flexible material.

moal3

Double the material forming a loop.

moal4

Secure the material to the hook, loop to the rear, using a few loose turns.

moal5

Slide the material forward until you have the desired length of material extending beyond the hook bend.

moal6

Secure the material to the hook with tight wraps extending up to the bead.

moal7

Fold the excess material over itself and bind it back to the rear so that it will not slip out.

moal8

Clip the excess backing.

moal9

Lift the loop and sneak your thread underneath.

moal10

Wrap back on the backing only until you reach the location where you want your body to start.

moal11

The hook will provide a place for the thread/backing rest while you secure your rabbit strip.

moal12

Select a section of Cross-Cut rabbit of the desired color. Here I am using pink. Orient the strip so that the hide faces you and the fur points to the rear.

moal13

Position the fur strip against the backing as shown .

moal14

… and using pinch wraps secure the hide to the backing. It will take some moderate manipulation of the bobbin holder to wrap between the backing and hook shank.

moal15

Once the hide is secured advance the thread up to the hook shank where you can let it rest.

moal16

Wrap the rabbit strip forward around the backing, being sure that you do not trap the fur between wraps.

moal17

Once you reach the shank…

moal18

…secure the rabbit strip and clip the excess.

moal19

Secure another section of cross-cut rabbit in an alternative color. Here, I am using a flesh colored strip. Orient it to the hook in the same manner as before.

moal20

Secure it where you tied-off the rear strip.

moal21

Advance the thread forward.

moal22

Wrap the strip forward…moal23

… ending TIGHT against the bead.

moal24

Take a wrap of thread around the strip to secure it…

moal25

…clip the excess.

moal26

Snug up on the thread wraps and the strip/thread should snap into place in the cavity of the bead. This is why I suggest using heavy thread.

moal27

A few security wraps, again sinking out of sight into the bead cavity will hold things together.

moal28

Whip finish and clip the thread.

moal29

Apply some cement and let it seep into the bead cavity.

moal30

Almost done!

moal31

Expose the hook bend and rear portion of the shank and, using wire cutters, snip off the unused section of the hook.

moal32

Look, Ma! No Hook!

moal33

Expose the loop of backing.

moal34

Slide on an appropriately colored glass faceted bead.

moal35

Next. loop on a beak hook to your backing.

moal36

A finished MOAL Leech!

moal37

Note: Be sure to make your backing loop long enough to accept the bead and still have enough room to loop on the hook!


is an accomplished fly angler with over 3-decades of angling and tying experience behind him. He is considered one of the best teaching guides in Upstate New York where he guides for , , and using traditional fly-fishing techniques (http://www.flyguysoutfitting.com/). Loren is also a very popular public speaker, regularly presenting on topics relating to fly-fishing for , and .

Additionally, Loren is a successful competitive angling member of Fly Fishing Team USA.

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One Comment »

  • stonedFLY » Blog Archive » red butt said:

    [...] streamer is tied using the technique found on Hatches magazine but instead of cross cut rabbit, I’ve used synthetic  fur, bought in local sewing craft [...]

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