Tube: ProTube Flexi-tube (color of choice)
Tail/Shell-back: pheasant tail
Ribbing: Wire of choice
Body: Wool or dubbing. If you are using multi-plied wool split it prior to wrapping.
Wing case: pheasant tail
Legs: Pheasant Tail
Mount the ProTube Flexi-needle in the vise. When mounting the needle i position it so the end of the tube is close to the jaws of the vice. When attaching the tube to the needle simply slide it on until it firmly seats. The ProTube system has the junction tube built into the main tube. For this particular fly we are using a Flexi-Tube, this tube allows you to insert the hook shank underneath the body. This results in a less visible hook and a fly where the hook point is closer to the body.
Select about 6 to 10 fibers from the base of a Pheasant Tail. These fibers are longer and will form a better shell-back. Tie the fibers into the junction tube section of the flexi-tube.
Using a pinching loop tie in both the pheasant tail and length of wire right on top of each other. Pull the tag ends of the tail backwards and wrap down over top of your previous wraps. This is so the shell-back will begin at the very end of your fly.
Bring the thread up the body and tie in your wool, (you can substitute for your choice of material such as midge braid or dubbing). Dub a tapered body.
Bring the tag end of the pheasant tail up over the body and secure with two wraps.
Wrap the wire with even wraps (about 5) and secure. Fold the pheasant tail fibers and secure in reverse.
As with the pheasant tail, tie in the peacock herl by the tip facing backwards. Twist the herl to form a rope and with touching turns wrap forward to form the thorax. Tie off and trim.
Pull the Wing-case over the thorax and tie off. Split the fibers in half and pull one clump so it is on the side of the tube. Tie it down by folding back, just like the other materials. Repeat with the other clump on the opposite side.
Repeat so that there are 4 fibers on each side and cut to length. Staggered slightly so that, on average, they are half the length of the body. Whip finish and trim. (The whip finish should be on the smaller diameter tube)
Apply Zap-a-Gap on the whip finish and slide on a cone head.
Now its time to trim the tube. For the back, leave about 5mm
For the front, use a razor to cut it half as close as you cut the rear (2mm)
Although you can melt the tube in many ways, my favorite is one taught to me by Neil Houlding. This method almost guarantees a even melt when mastered. Simply slide the tube on your dubbing needle and hold it upright. Next, hold the lighter perpendicular to the needle. This allows you to spin the tube easily as you are melting it. If cut the proper length, the tube should melt perfectly. If the cone can move back and forth cut off the nub and remelt. The collet will be small, just enough to hold the head on. With effort, the head will pop off but will not fall off.
Now simply thread your leader through tie on a short shank hook and experience the advantages of tubes flies
Chris is 15yrs old and from Middletown NY. You can see more of his flies on his Facebook page.