For the fly fisherman, the upwinged flies provide a great deal of interest. Each stage of their fascinating life-cycle requires a selection of patterns. Yes, there are days when a fish will move to any old fly, but there are times when they become stubbornly locked onto a specific stage. When the fish start to take duns from the surface, you may need to employ a dedicated pattern – especially if you find that they are turning and refusing an emerger. To remain successful, the important factor here is size and footprint. This paradun sits well on the surface, tails splayed helping stability and footprint in equal measures. The post-wing helps to suggest the upright wing of the dun. This is a superb pattern, and the tutorial I have given here is just the blue-print for any fully emerged up-wing: change the colour and size to suit the natural.
Throughout the tying of this pattern, I aim to avoid any sort of bulk in the fly. The naturals are dainty, delicate specimens and your imitation should try to address this. Each wrap if thread counts when you’re tying. Use your materials sparingly and your thread wisely and soon you’ll be producing delicate but robust imitations.
Hook: Partridge SLD #16
Thread: Sheer, 14/0
Tails: Coq de Leon
Abdomen: Orvis Spectrablend, light olive
Wing post: Funky Fibre, grey
Thorax: Grey squirrel
Hackle: Silver Badger, Cock
Now wind the thread in open wraps through the dubbed body to create a rib. Try spinning the thread into a rope before winding. Also using marker pens, or even wax, to colour the thread can give a more prominent rib. Your thread should finish at the thorax.
Tips for a tying a slender dun imitation:
Tying the Parachute post in last and under the hook shank allows:
1) A durable hackle
2) A neat thorax
3) No unnecessary build up of the body (often a danger when tying the post in first and under the thorax / dubbing)
4) The wing is in the perfect position with no need to add extra thread wraps to get it in position
I tie all my parachute hackles in this way and find it an effective , long lasting method which helps me achieve the slender profile I prefer in a dry fly.
The funky fibre that I use for the wing post is available in a range of colours. It is a string, light fibre which can be easily split to give you the exact diameter of wing you require, Available from www.funkyflytying.co.uk
Perhaps it’s a confidence thing, but I feel that the rib, even on a dry fly, makes the pattern all the more attractive. You may have noticed that I rib the fly with my tying thread. This serves several purposes:
a) I am not tying in extra materials which may increase bulk
b) I can change the gauge if the rib by flattening or spinning up my thread
c) It ensures my thread is a tying material in its own right and not simply the vehicle with which to attach materials to the hook.
As ever, less is more. Choosing a suitable dubbing is essential. You need one that is soft and pliable, allowing small amounts to be worked around the thread. My preferred choices are either Orvis Spectrablend or Wapsi Superfine.
For this, and further tutorials, please visit www.riverflybox.co.uk