Stone-A-Mite Wiggler- by Steve Wascher

featured, Fly Patterns, Step-by-Step Tutorials — By on April 11, 2012 8:05 pm

I love fishing and tying “generic patterns for both inland trout, steelhead, and a variety of warmwater speices. The “Stone-A-Mite Wiggler”, when tied in a variety of sizes and color variations is able to impersonate a wide variety of aquatic insects that live in both warm and cold water environs.


Hook: Daiichi #1130, Sizes 6-8-10, Rear Wiggle Hook – Straight eye Aberdeen hook 3/4 inches in length.
Thread: Gudebrod 6/0 or Wapsi UTC 140 Black
Head: Baetis or Caddis Green, 1/8th/3.2 mm Nymph Head
Body Tail: Tuft of black marabou.- Body for articulated wiggler – dubbing – Master Brite – Peacock, over which a black or olive Emu feather is laid in across the back, followed by a 1/4 in. Section of black “Thin Skin”, ribbed with 8 pound test brown, green or clear monofiliament.
Main Body: Loop of 12lb test mono to attach tail section.
Collar: Wound in at butt section of hook, several turns of black or olive Emu
Legs: 3 pair of “Spanflex” legs , knotted to impersonate joints, tied in at various points along shank of hook.
Wing Case: 2 sections of “Thin Skin” cut to shape to imitate wingcases,
Dubbing: Master Brite Peacock

Begin by a fixing a light wire, straight eyed nymph hook into the vise, attaching your thread with a jam knot and tying in a bunch of marabou (black) about 3/8ths of an inch long.

Tie in a 1.5″ long piece of black nymph skin which is approximately 3/16 – 1/4″ wide. The Nymph Skin should protrude off the back of the hook shank.

Attach a 3 – 4 ” piece of dark monofiliment (Maxima – 8lb. test) and a section of black or dark olive Emu. NOTE: both of these materials are tied in at exactly the same spot as the Nymph Skin.

Dub a dense body using any synthetic “Peacock” flavored dubbing. I personally prefer “Master Bright Dubbing”. Whatever dubbing you select should have some degree of ‘tease-ability”.

Pull the black Emu feather forward and secure it with several thread wraps. Ensure that the barbs of the feather protrude out the side of the fly.

Pull the Nymph Skin over the black Emu. Pull the Nymph Skin tight and secure with several thread wraps. Then rib with the mono rib. Whip finish and apply head cement.

Begin by sliding the bead into position and then placing the size 8 – 10, eye up salmon fly hook into the vise.

Next, Lay down a solid thread base and tie in a 5″ section of 10 – 12lb. monofiliment at the rear of the hook shank. Ensure that the “mono” is properly secured.

With a pair of wire cutters, cut the bend of the hook off from the articulated body just behind the marabou tail. Then slide the “mono” loop which is attached to the salmon fly hook through the eye of the articulated body or tail section. The loop which retains the “tail section” should be no more than 1/8″ long. But prior to tying in, ensure that the “tail section” has a good deal of mobility. Tie in the remainder of the mono section and glue with a good “CA” glue. Allow to dry!

At the rear of the salmon fly hook, tie in a section of black or dark olive Emu. Make 4 – 5 wraps and tie off the Emu. Trim Emu section and retain excess Emu for future flies.

Tie in a 3″ section of black “Nymph Skin” just in front of the Emu collar. Then, equally spaced apart, tie in three, 4″ pieces of round black living rubber. Tie them in w/a figure – 8 method and apply a small amount of glue to each wrap. NOTE: You want to have an equal amount of “living rubber” on each side of the hook shank.

Dub a very coarse body using the “Master Bright” dubbing or your favorite dubbing. Then wrap the remainder of the body with the dubbing and stop just behind the bead.

In open spirals, bring your thread back to the middle of the hook shank. Then bring forth the “Nymph Skin” to the middle of the shank, tie down with 4 – 5 wraps and then reverse the material and secure with 2 – 3 wraps so to give the folded appearance. Advance the thread to just behind the bead and bring the “Nymph Skin” forward. Secure behind the bead with several thread wraps and cut off excess material. Apply a liberal amount of cement. Lastly, dub a small amount of dubbing onto the thread and make 2 wraps behind the bead. Whip finish and apply more cement.

The “Stone-a-Mite” Wiggler is almost complete! You can either knot the legs to enhance the appendages or leave them (legs) unknotted. After knotting the legs, trim to length. If you prefer not to knot the legs, simply trim to the desired length.

Stone-A-Mite Wiggler

Now, go out and catch some great fish using this “multi-spieces” nymph.

Tight Lines and Great Fishing!!

Steven C. Wascher
[email protected]
This article has been published with the consent of the Flymen Fishing Company

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  1. Monte Kennedy says:

    I think STEVE WASCHER is by far one of our greatest fly tyers of this century ! Wait until you see his
    deer hair flies…FANTASTIC

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  2. Mark Sofman says:

    Steve Wascher -hey! I know that guy! Nice pattern. Will tie and try with Potomac smallies.

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  3. If you tie this and use it use a very strong tippet. The takes I have had on this fly were vicious! Mostly from BIG rainbows and one brown, and a Pike! They work! I suggest 8 or 10lb test clear mono or flurocarbon. I lost four flies when I tried them in an hour to hard takes, until I upped the strength of my tippet.
    Also works really well when tied in khaki or light olive!
    Tight lines!

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