How To – Build Sink Tips with T-14

Articles, featured, Fly Tying Tips — By on November 12, 2017 3:36 pm

Here is a simple and long lasting way to build sink tips with bulk material and a trick with colored nail knots that allow for easy recongition.
(For this example I used T-14, but this could be easily done with any weight material.)

This is similar to the braid loops that are prebuilt and commercially available

They are not the same
This method ensures strength and longevity (main complaints against prebuilt braided loops) with making sure there is enough material to effectively “trap” on both ends, nail knots to secure, and the use of UV flex glue to make sure the connections last for season after season and fish after fish.

What you need
T-14 cut to length (or any sink tip material)
40# Berkley Big Game (solar green – yes color matters)
40# Mono
Hollow braid
Clear Cure Goo (or any flexible UV cure glue)
Knowing how to tie a nail knot and perfection loop

Pick out you sink tip material. For this example I’m using 10ft of T-14 from Rio.


Cut a 10in section of Hollow braid. Melt one end with a lighter to make a solid point that won’t fray.


Feed the burnt point back into the braid to form a loop


Keep feeding the burnt end through the Hollow braid until the the loop is the right size.
Personally I like just big enough to fit the handle of my bodkin (or bic pen)


At the opposite end of the hollow braid, feed in the end of the sink tip. Feed it up to where there is a section of sink tip overlapping the burnt section of braid.


Cut a section of the 40# mono and make a nail knot on the overlapping material



Then take your 40# Big Game


And tie 2 nail knots where the sink tip is inside the hollow braid. spacing should be about an inch or 2 apart.

I use the nail knots to color code my tip weights
2 green (big game) – T-14 tips
1 geen (big game) 1 clear (mono) – T-11 tips
2 clear (mono) – T-8 tips

This makes it super easy to find my tips at a quick glance at any light.

Apply Clear Cure Goo Flex to the knots and up just short of the loop.
It is best to apply the material is small amounts with your bodkin and wipe off any excess.




Last step is to nail knot a section of 40# mono on the butt end of the sink tip material and then tie a perfection loop. So now you have a tip with 2 strong loops on each end that can easily be attached to any line setup with loop-to-loop hand shakes.

notice I left some of butt end of the sink tip material after the nail knot, this will keep the nail knot from stripping the material.



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  1. Chris says:

    I just put the nail knot right in the end of the sinking material. Make the loop. Nail knot or 2. A dab of crazy glue for good measure. Coat of coloured nail polish then uv knotsense to smooth the transition. Works great. No failure.

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  2. Wand Muha says:

    Nike share, it’s not too hard to do but not easy to through out.

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  3. Rich Chubon - says:

    What size hollow braid do you use and where do you get it?

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  4. Ron says:

    How does the energy transfer over to the sink tip? Does the braided loops hold up or does in lose the energy.

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  5. Jake Enns says:

    Hi Kevin ,

    Presently I have a 15′ and a 4′ sink tip for attaching to my dry line. Both do the job of sinking the fly. However , during casting , both do a fair imitation of me slinging a wet mop. What is your remedy for that problem ?

    Guy at the sport shop cuts the 12′ shooting taper off his new dry line. It improves the casting of the ‘tip’ and says he doesn’t miss that part. But I’m scared to do that.

    Regards, Jake

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  6. Ron – by coating the braided material there is only 1inch (at most uncoated) and really no hinge point

    Jake – these tips shown are for skagit lines (thick heavy floating/int heads), sounds like you’d be better off with a sinking leader/ poly leader. They are less mass and should eliminate the “wet mop” factor

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