Some prep work must be completed before starting this fly.
This is a wild turkey wing feather, and this is where you’ll get your first kind of turkey biots.
Separate the individual biots and brush some flex-seal on them; these will be used for legs later on, so you will need at least six of them.
Now for some further prepping. Take some fat olive rooster hackles and dip the tips in flex-seal.
These will be used for wing buds later so you’ll need at least two.
LET'S START TYING!
First, we need to build the body on the hook. I don’t know about fish, but I like fat, juicy bugs. Run some .020 lead wire down one side of the hook, wrapping tightly with tying thread as you go,
then, over top where the bend begins, as seen below, back up the other side. This is to build the body out.
Tie in a piece of 6 lb. yellow/green mono, about 20 inches long, folded in half. Tie in at the fold ahead of the lead weighting; run both ends down the sides, just like the lead, to build the body out even further.
Wrap very well to bind mono as close to the sides as possible. Take a few fibers from a rooster hackle and tie in a butt; be sure to leave the two strands of mono extending out from butt (can't be seen very well in photo; note green line extending back over vise jaw.)
Now weave the two pieces of mono up the body stopping about half way. Secure and trim mono now.
Tie in two normal turkey biots (the second type of turkey biot) for wing casings.
Tie six legs (first type of biot that we put flex-seal on), three on each side.
Tie in small mono eyes.
Spin Opossum dubbing on tying string and then wrap backward, wrapping between each individual leg, then forward, doing same thing.
Tie in two hackle tips dipped in flex-seal as wing buds.
Fold regular turkey biots up over wing buds; tie off and trim at mono eyes. Make a few extra wraps to cover messy trim job and fill area around eyes. Be sure to build a nice collar behind eyes for a nice looking neck.
Tie in two strands of moose mane for antennae.
Whip finish and seal head with flex-seal. Push moose mane antennae back while drying to make them stay in the reclining position.
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