Start by cutting a clump of fibers from a green duster.
Grip the fibers and thread in your finger tips and wrap the thread like you were starting a fly.
Put a 1/2 inch piece of rubber leg on top of the fibers and tie down.
Half hitch and glue thread. Repeat on opposite end minus the rubber leg.
Repeat above steps for second leg. Now start thread near hook bend ( I'm using a 1/0 stainless stinger hook.)
Tie in legs by rubber on sides of hook shank.
Tie in a small clump of chartreuse Marabou.
Half hitch and cut the thread. Now start 3/0 thread. The first bunch of deer hair will be spun. I use hair from the base of the tail.
If the tails you have don't have suitable hair you can use deer body hair. Cut a clump a little thicker than a pencil. Now comb out all the under fur. If you don't the hair will not spin. Hold the hair on top of the shank and take 2 light wraps around it. On the third wrap tighten down and spin the hair around the hook shank.
Now pull the hair back and wrap the thread a few times in front of it.
From this point on, the hair will be stacked. Rotate the vise so the hook point is up. Now cut a clump of white deer hair. Lay it on the hook like you did for the olive hair.
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This week’s typing tip is in response to a question by Hatches reader, Nick S. from Boise, ID. Nick wanted to know if we had any suggestions for a small, lightweight fly tying vise to use streamside, or on backcountry fly-in/ hike-in fly fishing trips.
GLOBE PEQUOT ( THE LYONS PRESS, FALCON), November 1997
Binding Type: Hardcover
Retail Price: $16.95 at the Hatches Store
ISBN: 1-55821-067-9
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With rubber legs showing up in more and more fly patterns, one common problem fly tier’s are facing is that they get in the way when tying a whip finish knot. In this week’s Tying Tips, Hatches Magazine staff member Alex Cerveniak shares three quick and easy ways to keep those rubber legs out of the way.
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