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Hatches Magazine / February 2006 / Robert Farrand
 

Ibis and White
by John McCoy
Crayfish Spey Style
by Will Mullis
Woven Stonefly
by Brent Drew
Tying a Dragonfly
by Graham Owen
Spring's Wigglers
by Robert Farrand
Versatility
by Ralf Maky
Satisfaction
by Mark Dysinger
In Search of a Rising Tide
by Will Mullis
A New Perspective on Warmwater
by Steve Clark
Saltwater Flyfishing Introduction
by Sean Murphy
Material Preperation
by Ronn Lucas
The Hex Hatch
by Steve Clark
Need A Band-Aid? Part I
by Alex Cerveniak
Out My Back Door
by Brian Ahern
Small Stream Stratagies
by Steve Clark
The Case for Local Waters
by Joseph Cornwall
Canadian Fly Fishing Championships
by Nick Pujic
True Love and the Wooly Bugger
by Dave Ames
Knowing Bass
by Keith A. Jones

"Howto" Articles
- Tackling The Great Lakes Surf
- Pike Fishing 101

Book Reviews
- Rivers of Shadow, Rivers of Sun


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Categories: / Fly Tying / Patterns / Nymphs / Steelhead



Anyone who visits a fly shop in Michigan and looks over the selections of Steelhead flies is sure to see many of the spring's Wiggler pattern flies.

Most likely you will see a vast array of colors and sizes of this fly, from natural to fluorescent and everything in-between. I really can't tell you what this pattern represents, but I would place it in the "general purpose" Great Lakes Steelhead family of fly patterns. And, as far as a history is concerned, I can only give you the hear-say about its origins.

"It is said..." that a fellow by the name of Ron Springs fished this pattern exclusively, and made it popular. I can only tell you that the pattern has been around as long as I can remember and I have taken many Steelhead and Salmon with these flies. Being very easy to tie and needing no expensive material, this pattern is just what the doctor ordered when fishing Michigan snag-ridden steelhead streams and rivers.

I like to use a good wet fly hook in sizes from 4 to 10 (I know that seems small to a West Coast fisherman but that's the normal size range for Great Lakes Spring wigglers.)

I will be using a Mustad 3399 in size 6 to tie this fly, but just about any wet fly hook will do - 3906, 3906B, and others.

Step 1

Start by wrapping the hook shank with a layer of thread (I will be using size 6/0 Black.)

Wrap front to back; once you have reached the bend of the hook tie in a small section of squirrel tail. You will need to hold the section by the tips with one hand and pull (separate) the shorter hairs from the section with the other. This will give you a section with all longer hairs.

Tie in the squirrel tail at the bend of the hook shank, making a tail about half as long as the shank. Once the section is secured, stand the section up and wrap on the other side of the section to pinch the hair in-between the threads.



Step 2

The second item you will need is Saddle Hackle. I like a #2 Saddle Hackle which can be bought for around 10 dollars for the whole saddle patch, but some tiers prefer a more webby, strung hackle, and color is something you will need to decide.

I will be using a barred light brown hackle for this fly.

Holding the tip of the hackle feather, splay the fibers out by pulling them slightly against the grain to get the fibers fanned, as you see in the picture. Tie the feather in by it's tip just in front of the tail.



Step 3

For our third and final material we choose chenille. Chenille size or gauge depends on the size of fly you're tying. For flys size 4-6, I use medium chenille and for sizes 8-10, I use small. Chenille has a core of thread that holds the chenille's yarns together; you'll need to pluck some of the yarn from the end of the strand of chenille to bare the thread core to tie in.

Tie in the thread core of the end of the chenille strand. Again, color is your own preference; I'm using a variegated green and black.



Step 4

Wrap the strand of chenille forward on the hook shank, leaving room for the head; tie off and trim.



Step 5

Wrap the hackle evenly over the chenille body using about 5 wraps to reach the end of the body; tie off and trim.



Pull the remainder of the squirrel tail section over the body of the fly- try not to trap too many hackle fibers; tie this off just behind the eye of the hook.

(As shown)



Once you have secured the squirrel tail section cut the remainder on an angle so you can finish with a nice tapered head, then whip finish (head cement is recommended.)



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