Destination: Margaree River
by Damian Welsh

Cape Breton, Nova Scotia, Canada

The Margaree River- to some, the words alone conjure up vivid memories of days gone by and the many memorable pilgrimages many of us make year after year. 

Thoughts and images rush through your head as you anticipate that first trip of the season to the Margaree’s banks.  The anticipation quickly turns into hurried excitement as you begin to make your way into the valley over winding roads, and past the familiar landmarks along the way.

You turn off the air conditioning, roll down the windows and feel the rush of a fresh Margaree breeze pass under your nose; you breathe it in deeply and that wave of unmistaken familiarity overcomes you, telling you that you have finally arrived, and another season is about to begin.

Like the Atlantic Salmon to their native streams return, I, likewise, return to the Margaree River year after year in hopes of landing my first Margaree Salmon, the elusive Salmo Salar.

They say that Salmo Salar is "the fish of a thousand casts." More recently I heard it was the fish of ten thousand casts, but I truly believe it has more to do with being in the right place at the right time under the right conditions, whatever those may be, as the “right conditions” can change as quickly as the Cape Breton weather.

Early June brings the opening of the season and the first significant rainfalls of mid-June and early July spark the beginning of the Atlantic Salmon run on the Margaree River. A run which will last throughout the Summer, only to be complimented by a second late run that coming Autumn.

The Margaree River System is the largest river system on Cape Breton Island, and one of the largest in Nova Scotia with a total length of 120 kilometres.  It begins its journey deep in the Highlands of Cape Breton along the Aspy Fault line, surrounded by steep mountainous ravines and beautiful old growth forest in pristine, unspoiled wilderness.

The river meanders through the upper mountainous regions and down into the valley where it widens and slows only slightly. The Margaree is also known for being one of the swiftest flowing rivers in Nova Scotia. The river makes its way through the lower Margaree Valley to Margaree Forks, where it’s flows meet with the Southwest branch of the Margaree; this branch of the Margaree begins 34 km’s upstream at Lake Ainslie, Nova Scotia’s largest natural fresh water lake.

Click on image to enlarge

In 1991 a great honour was bestowed on the Margaree-Lake Ainslie River System, by becoming the first river in Nova Scotia to be nominated to be a Canadian Heritage River System. 

Getting There

   
Click Images to Enlarge

Additional information on Destination Nova Scotia

Visit Nova Scotia

Once you’ve arrived

One of the first things I like to do before I hit the river is to make several stops at my favourite places in the Margaree.   My first stop is always the Margaree Salmon Museum, where Ms. Frances Hart has been curator for most of its forty-year history.  Ms. Hart is a wonderful lady and she enjoys seeing people come back to visit year after year, and shows with pride any new pieces that have been donated to the museum over the past year.

Click to enlarge photo

The Museum is located in North East Margaree; watch for highway signs.  The museum is open daily from June 15 to October 15; 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., and Ms. Hart is there pretty much every day of the week.

The Margaree Salmon Association sponsors this museum containing an excellent collection of fishing tackle, flies, photos and fishing memorabilia, many pieces of which are from famous anglers and fly-tyers.

The building, first opened as a museum in 1965, was expanded in 1978 from the old Rossville School. It is definitely one place you’ll want to stop in for a visit.  The museum also received a special commendation in 1982 from the American Association of State and Local History; it is definitely a place worth dropping into to explore.

The next stop I make is the Margaree Fish Hatchery and the Visitor Interpretation Centre.  I get the most current information on conditions, fish capture, and basically say hello to the folks that run the place.  The Government of Canada established the Fish Hatchery in 1902 and it was the first establishment that supported Atlantic Salmon culture in Nova Scotia.  The Margaree Fish Hatchery, the oldest fish hatchery facility in Nova Scotia, faced closure in the early 1990’s due to the provincial governments' attempts to consolidate expenditures in the Inland Fisheries Division.  However, the residents of the Margaree area and friends of the Margaree River stood by tradition in an attempt to save the hatchery.

Today, the Aquatic Development Association of Margaree (ADAM) operates the hatchery with the purpose of raising Atlantic Salmon and Brook Trout to stock the Margaree watershed.

ADAM was formed by a group of Margaree residents in 1995 in an effort to keep the Margaree Fish Hatchery open. The organization plays a vital role in maintaining the health of the Margaree River and has the mandate of operating the hatchery.

One of the more frequented pools is located directly below the Interpretation Centre, a large pool that can be fished from either side successfully.  This is a deep holding pool and you can see the salmon staging as they await darkness or a raise in water to continue their journey upstream to the spawning habitat.

The Interpretation Centre has a large-screen television connected to an underwater camera, providing live video feed from the Hatchery Pool all day long. Visitors to the Interpretation Centre can get an up-close look at the fish as they hold in the pool.

The Margaree Fish Hatchery and Interpretation Centre is most definitely worth a stop to explore, and why not start off fishing by challenging the Hatchery Pool! Lee Wulff once shot a short film right on that very spot.

Female fly fisher working a pod of staged Salmon on the Hatchery Pool-Photo by Damian Welsh

continue to page 2 >>>

Recent Articles