In the last issue we prepped the blank and mounted the grip and seat. Next up we’ll give the rod its real character by installing the tip top and wrapping the guides.
Tip tops are sized according to the inside diameter of the tube that slips over the blank, or the outside diameter of the tip of the blank. The measurement unit is 64ths, so a 4.5 tip top is 4.5/64ths. In the picture below, we’d need a 5.0 tip top. To figure the proper size tip, take the outside diameter of the blank and multiply it by 64 -> .0705 X 64 = 4.512, rounding UP we get 5.0.
Some blank manufacturers or suppliers will tell you what the tip top size needed is, but if they don’t a micrometer or even a simple tip gauge work fine for determining the proper tip.
To mount the tip top simply apply a small dab of thermoplastic adhesive (Ferr-L-Tite or Flex Coat tip top adhesive) or epoxy inside the tube, then slip the tip over the blank being careful to align the spine properly with the loop.
We are now ready to temporarily place the guides. On this rod we’ll be using 7 single foot snake guides, and 2 stripping guides. The general rule of thumb for guides is the length of the rod in feet plus 1 guide.
Often manufacturers will supply spacing and sizing charts with their blanks, but if they do not there are quite a few different guide spacing charts and programs that can be found online. Here is a link to a program that will calculate the number of guides, guide spacing and suggest guide sizes: http://www.farnorthrodsmiths.com/GuideCalculator.msi
Here is the spacing that I’ll be using for the rod we are building:
Before placing the guides we need to spend a few minutes prepping the guide feet. The reason for this is that most brands of guides have a very steep step or transition at the edge of the guide foot.
The step may look small now, but as we wrap up to, and over it, we run the risk of having problems wrapping up onto the foot as well as potential gaps in the finished wrap.
Using a Dremel tool or small file, simply round off the tip of the guide foot so the transition from the blank to the guide is smoother and more gradual.
To temporarily mount the guides, use a thin strip of masking tape. With single foot guides, be sure to leave at least half of the guide foot exposed as we will wrap our thread up onto the foot to secure it, then remove the tape. With double foot guides, tape one side on the blank, and begin wrapping on the other, tape-free end.
The main thing we need to be careful with while taping on the guides is keeping them aligned in a straight line and along or against the spine. A little extra time spent here will make aligning the guides after they are wrapped much easier.
With the guides taped in place we are ready to begin wrapping. Rod wrapping jigs can be as fancy as foot-pedal driven motorized lathe setups, or as simple as a box with V-grooves cut into it and a book as a tension device. I used the box and book setup for my first dozen or so rods with no ill effects.
If you are even slightly adept at woodworking, or know someone who is, and you’d like to make an upgraded rod wrapper, check out RodBuildingForum.com for other options in homemade jigs.
Depending how your wrapper is setup, you will either be working from the top or bottom of the blank. The thread from my wrapper goes over the top of the blank, which means I’ll be rotating the blank counterclockwise, and I’ll be wrapping the thread from right to left. In fact, I almost always wrap right to left. I find that I am faster and more accurate when wrapping in this direction so I stick with it.
The amount of tension needed for wrapping is difficult to describe. You don’t want it too tight, nor too loose. If you can wrap the thread around the blank twice after your cross-over wrap (see below) and the thread doesn’t slip/twist, you’re using adequate tension. Slightly snug is better than slightly loose.
For thread we’ll be using Gudebrod brand size A nylon thread. This is a standard rod wrapping thread that is good for any size fly rod. The thread comes in dozens of different colors and any place that sells rod building supplies should have a good stock of it.
We’re now ready to begin the actual wrapping of the guides.
The first step is to wrap the thread around the blank once, making sure the tag end is kept to the guide side (left).
While keeping slight tension on the tag, or loose end of the thread, push the spool side of the thread over the top of the tag end. This is your initial crossover wrap that will eventually hold the thread in place.
I like my wraps to begin and end along the spine of the blank. This is purely cosmetic, but this and all the other small touches are what separate a custom rod from a factory built one.
The tension from the crossover wrap holds the thread in place as you are turning the rod. We’ll need one more turn over the tag end before we can let go of it as it still has the tendency to spin with only one crossover.
But before we continue we need to get the wrap into place where we want the actual wrap to begin. By holding the tag end, you can spin the blank and gently slide the wrap around back and forth it is where you want it to begin. You can also use a bodkin or other small tool to shuffle the wrap into place.
Next, in order to keep the thread from spinning freely on the blank while we spin it, hold the crossover point with a finger and wrap the tag end counterclockwise (down and back over) around the blank once.
Once you have tension back on the tag end you can let go with your finger. Keep gentle pressure on the tag end and spin the rod one revolution until you cross over the tag end a second time. The counterclockwise wrap will ‘unwind’ as we spin the blank around.
We now have two wraps covering the tag end which should be enough to hold the thread in place so we can let go of the end. If your wrap comes undone at this point, or spins on the blank, try applying a bit more tension to the thread. After a few more revolutions of the blank we can trim the tag end.
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