Materials You Will Need
Hook: Mustad 9674, Size 4.
Weight: Gold Cone Head.
Tail and Body: Rabbit Strip.
Head: Platte River Special Colored Leech Dubbing.
In my opinion, Rabbit strips are some of the most versatile materials that can be used with a variety of techniques. Rabbit is a natural material that gives life-like movement that has never been duplicated by synthetics. By keeping the fur on the hide it is extremely durable material that is almost indestructible.
Many tiers recommend using cross-cut strips for the body because they look nicer when wrapped on a hook. A few years ago I followed this idea/belief/discipline until someone recommended using regular strips for better action. Much to my surprise that person was right on, and believe it or not, the regular strips give a pulsating movement in the water that is far superior to those tied with crosscut strips. Do your own testing and tie them however you wish. This is one of the most versatile patterns that can be tied in unlimited numbers of colors and sizes.
Step 1: Slide the cone head onto the hook; secure hook in the vise.

Step 2: Wrap thread back to the bend of the hook.

Step 3: Split the rabbit strip where you want the tail to be. Be careful on the length of the tail; if it is too long the tail can foul on the hook. This may be eliminated by making a shorter tail or by making a loop using heavy mono or wire and placing it under the tail, which will keep it from fouling. Secure in place with a few tight wraps of thread.

Step 4: Bring thread forward to just behind the cone head.

Step 5: Wrap the rabbit strip up the shank of the hook. Sweep the hair back after each wrap to keep from being trapped underneath the next wrap forward.

Step 6: Once you reach the cone, separate the hair as you did for the tail and secure with a few turns of thread.

Step 7: Using a razor blade, trim the excess rabbit strip.

Step 8: Secure the strip with several wraps of thread. By wrapping over the trimmed excess it will slide inside the cone head, helping to secure it in place.

Step 9: Spin the leech dubbing onto the thread and fill in the gap between the strip and the cone.

The finished fly.

Several different color combinations. This fly can also be tied unweighted; with weight, by using a bead, lead wire, or dumbbell eyes.

GLOBE PEQUOT ( THE LYONS PRESS, FALCON), November 1997
Binding Type: Hardcover
Retail Price: $16.95 at the Hatches Store
ISBN: 1-55821-067-9
“The trout’s biggest advantage is selectivity, and we can counteract it only by knowing the insects that make up his diet. This is the reason for the study of stream entomology by the angler, and it is often the weak link in his skill.”
-Ernest Schwiebert
Trout Stream Insects: An Orvis Streamside Guide is by no means a new book. However, since it was first published in 1990, it has successfully been introducing novice …
Sand Creek is a pretty little piece of trout water that harbors some very fussy fish. Clear water in a small creek demands a quiet approach; casting from the bank is a good strategy when fishing small flies to springtime trout. Photo by Russ Forney
Springtime in Wyoming can be pretty elusive. Just when the first flush of prairie wildflowers sweetens the air, the next storm buries them under a foot of snow. Somewhere between the first Meadowlark and the last new calf, winter finally begins to relax its icy grip. …
With rubber legs showing up in more and more fly patterns, one common problem fly tier’s are facing is that they get in the way when tying a whip finish knot. In this week’s Tying Tips, Hatches Magazine staff member Alex Cerveniak shares three quick and easy ways to keep those rubber legs out of the way.
![]() Hatches is an annual publication with a strong devotion to professional writing, beautiful photography and informative articles pertaining to both the artistic and practical aspects of fly tying. Each issue features 13 featured articles that span a massive 96 pages.
| ||||||||||
| ||||||||||